The panade recipe in The Zuni Cafe Cookbook got here to my consideration when a good friend baked a stupendous double-version of it in an over-sized AGA dutch oven and served it at a cocktail party years in the past. It was the show-stopping centerpiece of a meal flanked by a stupendous winter inexperienced + chicory salad and gem-shaded glasses of wine. The mix of effervescent cubes of brothy bread and caramelized onions silkily merging with molten threads of cheese is knee-buckling. It’s the right instance of a brief record of the only elements coming collectively into one thing far more than then sum of their components.
I’ve baked variations of this panade within the years since, and it by no means disappoints. It’s endlessly adaptable, which means you can add seasonal elements to fit your fancy. For instance, in my case, I do a vegetarian model by switching up the broth, and I like my onions on the caramelized facet of the spectrum. I’ll add no matter sautéed greens or roasted greens I’ve round. Judy additionally listed a spread of concepts and variations within the cookbook, so when you have it (and you need to!) you’ll want to have a look at these for year-round inspiration. Her unique had chard. I take advantage of a lot of scallions in mine. Briefly, it’s a kind of IYKYK recipes. Molly Wizenberg knew what was up manner again in 2005 when she wrote concerning the Judy panade recipe right here.Â
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I’m going to dive in and reply a lot of questions right here which may pop up. The ingredient record for this panade couldn’t be less complicated, however the satan is within the particulars and navigating private preferences.
What Form of Bread for this Panade?
The quick reply is an efficient, chewy artisan sourdough loaf. That mentioned, I can even argue that a variety of that is private desire. When you bake sourdough at residence, by all means, use that. Both of these alternative will doubtless end in a properly structured panade with good distinction between among the parts. The bread alternative is such an enormous deal on this recipe, every one will influence your finish outcome immensely. I realized the exhausting manner after I used a extra business sourdough loaf to make the panade one evening – a lot finer crumb, much less/no chewiness, and I’m guessing it was 100% all-purpose flour. The ensuing panade broke down too far, into an unstructured hunch. You need the bread to place up a struggle and maintain a little bit of stress. Not go to mush altogether. The perfect model I’ve made was with a loaf of day-old home made sourdough made with wild rice in it.Â
Crust or no Crust?
There are arguments for each. The panade right here retained the crust on the bread cubes. However I’ve achieved crustless variations earlier than. When you resolve you like an excellent oozy, silky panade, go crustless. When you like your panade to have extra construction, preserve your crust. Or go 50/50!
What’s the Greatest Broth for Panade?
We have a tendency to make use of no matter good-tasting broth we’ve got round or within the freezer (defrost). I really like an herby broth for this scallion and chive model, however should you’re in a pinch seize a bouillon dice or two and go from there. Judy makes use of a rooster broth in her recipe (which doesn’t work for vegetarians), however I’ve had nice outcomes with mushroom broth, and corn broth together with roasted cherry tomatoes and goat cheese within the panade. I’ve even used spicy bean broth.
Can I take advantage of a Totally different Cheeses on this Panade?
You’ll be able to! I name for Gruyere, however point out within the headnote that one in all my favourite variations ended up being a mix of Gruyere, Parmesan, and Pecorino cheeses. I desire barely assertive cheeses for the panade, with at the very least a portion being a cheese that oozes when melted. For instance, I wouldn’t attain for a mozzarella – too gentle.
Can I Make this Forward of Time?
I typically make the caramelized onions forward of time. After which every other fillings that I’d have the ability to pre-roast.Â
Soupy versus Dry-ish Panades
Once more, that is private desire. After you bake panade a few times you’ll begin to get a way of what fashion you like. You’ll be able to go the soup-is route by including extra broth. Or lean into extra of a stuffing vibe with much less broth. The recipe beneath goals to hit the mark the place the panade is transitioning from a stuffing-like texture, into silkier magic, not-yet-in-soup territory.
This recipe is a warming, hearty, winter hotter. It seems to be so rustic, however the silkiness down within the depths is what’s extremely shocking. It’s the last word consolation dish that I hope you get pleasure from as a lot as I’ve over time. Due to Jamie & Chanda & Bonni for our SF panade dinners, we miss them (and also you) a lot!
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